Category Archives: Food

Recipe for bourbon bacon jam

Lüchow’s — A Love Story

I recently acquired an original copy of the 1952 edition of Lüchow’s cookbook. What I was expecting was the time honored recipes from America’s most famous German restaurant for their sauerbratten, lentil soup, venison stews, potato pancakes and roulade. What I got was something even better.

The 64-year-old book, which was obviously lovingly cared for, has only a  few notations in the margins of some of the recipes.   The recipe for “Broiled Deviled Short Ribs” has a brown dot near the top of the page which may be the archaeological evidence of “English mustard, olive oil, bread crumbs and mustard sauce” or it may simply be a little grease from what was no doubt a delicious batch of short ribs. The oven temp of 325F is crossed out and “350” is penciled in the margin. Next to where the book says “Broil under moderate heat until browned” is written, this time in pen: “very short time.”  When you open to this page the binding becomes slightly exposed suggesting that this was a common page for the prior owner to have the book opened to and laying flat on the kitchen counter.Luchow's Cookbook 1952 edition cover

The physical book embodies the love of one who owned it but it is the first Chapter that moved me as much as any cookbook has ever moved me. It is a story of love with all the irrationality and obsession that characterizes enduring love.  An epic story of one man’s journey to his destiny, spanning generations in the ever-changing, multilayered island of Manhattan. Of a massive and mythical restaurant that calls to him like a siren song, drawing him into its history and his future.

The story begins with millionaire piano magnate Joseph Steinway putting up the money to buy out the young August Lüchow’s employer and rename the restaurant “Lüchow’s“.   At a time when 14th Street was full of German “bier gartens” and Italian wine restaurants, Lüchow’s immediately became the flagship as Steinway brought the era’s best pianists and musicians for lavish meals. Live music in the restaurant soon followed with an 8-piece orchestra imported from the old country to serenade a sea of well-heeled diners.  ASCAP was founded inside of the restaurant’s walls and the song “Yes Sir, That’s My Baby” was so feverishly inspired by the muses, food and copiously flowing beer, that is was penned directly on the tablecloth of Eddie Cantor’s table.

The story goes on. Lüchow’s not only survived Prohibition but emerged from it in 1933 with honor.  Lüchow’s cancelled 4 straight years of New Year’s Eve parties because Herr Lüchow refused to sully his beloved emporium with the illicit liquor that patrons had to smuggle in in hip flasks. Lüchow’s record during Prohibition was so impeccable that when Prohibition finally ended and the world’s finest lager and pilsners flowed again on 14th Street, New York City honored August Lüchow with Liquor License Number 1.

While his restaurant survived Prohibition, August Lüchow did not and in 1923 ownership passed to Victor Eckstein, his nephew in-law. Victor presided over a grand chapter in Lüchow’s history, when the restaurant was a parade of the biggest and best known figures of the 20th Century — John Barrymore, Irving Berlin, Cole Porter, Walter P Chrysler, Antonin Dvorak, Lillian Gish, Marlene Deitrich,  Florenz Zeigfeld, Richard Rogers and Oscar Hammerstein.

Meanwhile in Europe, Jan Mitchell spent his youth in grand dining halls watching the preparations for grand hunting feast. Mitchell believed he was “headed for the country squire’s life” until his first visit to the United States in 1932. He recalls that entering Lüchow’s was a turning point. The atmosphere, food and tradition’s engendered an insatiable lust that would only be cured by owning Lüchow’s.

He was of no relation to Eckstein or anyone else well connected to the property but he embarked on a 13 year quest that included attending hotel management schooling in Zurich and the purchase of long-standing restaurant in Washington D.C.  in 1940 (an apt  time to leave Europe). During WWII, Mitchell made many trip to New York, each time trying to convince Eckstein to sell it to him. He promised to keep the traditions and atmosphere consistent but was rebuffed many times. By 1945, Eckstein was finally convinced and a restaurant that had played host to thousands of marriage proposals agreed to a marriage of its own — Eckstein sold to Jan Mitchell.

Mitchell’s enduring memory of his ownership is embodied in his recalling an early Christmas there. A pine tree towered 25-feet tall in the high ceiling cafe’ area, adorned with 2500 “electric candles” that were not lit until Christmas Eve in keeping with the German tradition. An orchestra from Bavaria played “Silent Night” as diners sang together and as the evening came to its end, the aging friends of August Lüchow shook the hand of its newest owner and told him, some with tears on their cheeks: “If August Lüchow came in tonight he would feel right at home — Nothing has changed.”

 

 

 

8 Tips for Photographing Food

Paintings of fruit and other foods were a way for the Old Masters to show off their skill. Human vision is most discerning when appraising the edibility of potential foods. For example, we can see more shades of green than any other color and that probably helped with foraging. In artwork, food either looks right or it looks disgusting, which literally means ‘not good to eat.’

Here are 8 simple ways to make your food pictures better:

1 – Photograph the food in natural light. Shade or diffused sunlight is the best. The full spectrum of color that is in sunlight brings out all the best colors in food.   Avoid, if possible, fluorescent light which tends to make food look washed out and bland.  Look out for hard shadows which you would get in direct sunlight — better to move to the shade or have a friend hold a menu up to block the direct sunlight.

 

2 – Photograph the plate BEFORE you take any bites of food. Ideally, the picture should look “ready to eat” rather than half-eaten.  A fork or spoon in the picture is suggestive of food that is ready to be eaten right now and encourages the viewer to take that mental bite.

3 – Shoot straight down on the plate unless the food is stacked, in which case shoot at the angle you would have if the plate was placed in front of you, about 45-degrees or so.  The straight down shot avoids having things in the picture that are distracting and is more natural angle for close shots.

4 – Shoot close or crop tightly. Most of us are seeing pictures on fairly small screens like phones or tablets. If you can’t see the detail on the food then the picture is going to have much less impact.

5 – If you are the one cooking, get some color on your food, preferably golden brown.  A little butter and hot skillet can transform ordinary foods into mouth-watering show stoppers.  Think of tuna salad on white bread versus that same tuna salad on toasted sourdough or on grilled (skillet) bread. The color sets our expectations higher.

6 – Look out for greasy or reflective spots on the plates. In close pictures everything will show so take a careful look for the odd crumb or hair that spoils an otherwise great pic.  Wipe the rim of the plate with a paper napkin, not your finger.

7 – Avoid plates and flatware that have a lot of pattern or more than 2 colors as they will distract from the food. The plate and flatware should be secondary to the food so unless the food is white, a white plate works fine for most foods. If you have white food (rice, bread, eggs, milk, etc) then an off-white plate or perhaps a very dark plate will help the food stand out.

8 – Having garnish or sauce in the frame expands our mental playground. That little ramekin of ketchup gives us one more thing to taste with our eyes. One of the toughest things to photograph is any food that is served in a bowl — stir fry, soup or pasta — because it lacks definition.  Something like a grain bowl generally needs to have a fan of avocado slices or bean sprouts on top; something that shows us that there are a lot of good tastes in bowl by isolating one or two of them.

To your eyes I say “Bon Appetit!”

Bourbon Bacon Jam

I used Maker’s Mark 46 which is aged in seared french oak casks so it has a smokey note. I skipped coffee which is popular in these more complex bacon jams. Results were very good and this jam was great on grilled burgers or just on french bread crustini that was fried in a little olive oil.

bacon jam in 4oz ball jar
Makers 46 bourbon jam

1 lb bacon, prefer applewood smoked
1 medium white onion, sliced
1 red onion, sliced
3 oz Maker’s Mark 46 Aged Bourbon
3 cloves of garlic roasted in olive oil for 45 mins at 375F
2 Tb brown sugar
salt
2 tsp honey
1 tsp balsamic vinegar

Cook the bacon fairly crisp in an oven and pour off most of the grease. Carmelize the onions in about 2 Tb of the bacon fat for 10 mins then add bacon, garlic and other ingredients.  If you are cooking on flames, remove the pan from the burner when adding the bourbon as it may ignite otherwise.  Simmer on medium low heat to allow most alcohol to evaporate then reduce heat to low heat for another 10 minutes.

Cool slightly and process in a food processor to the preferred texture (for me, about 12 quick pulses removing the lid twice to push down any onion or larger pieces of bacon which may stick the side walls of the processor).  Taste and adjust seasoning. Acids like the balsamic really help the other flavors pop. One more pulse and you’re done.

Serve on burgers, pork, steak, eggs or just on breads.

 

My Favorite Chef in Hudson 86’d

A challenging year that has brought the death of my father, my best friend, the founder of Stewardship Farms, Prince and David Bowie, began with one of Hudson’s best chefs, and my personal favorite, checking out.

Dan was a self-driven perfectionist and it showed on every plate. His kitchen had a digital clock in it of a size one might expect in Times Square, large red numbers counting away the minutes as the orders rolled in. He always sent out a surprising Amuse Buche, often on a little white ceramic spoon. The server would put them in  front of me anDABA Dan Nilssond then rattle off 4 or 5 tantalizing ingredients that filled my mind with anticipation and curiosity.

DA|BA started in Hudson before the influx of restaurateurs. In a town with no grocery stores and limited options for dining out, especially under $15, Danny was a God-send. His menu was two menus really — fantastic higher end seafood dishes inspired by his Scandanavian roots and a bar menu with 5 or 6 great options under $10. They had Brooklyn Lager on tap at $4 and the most perfectly cooked burger served up on thick cuts of bread was $8.  A perfectly satisfying BLT and a tempeh sandwich rounded out the every day offerings but Dan was better known for his more ambitious stalwarts like his amazingly rich and deep Chantrelle soup.

“DABA Dan,” as he was known here,  was very accepting of all us in Hudson despite, or perhaps because of, our eccentricities. As someone who has worked in a dozen restaurants, I was a bit jealous of Dan who had great reviews, great food and had managed to overcome one of the biggest challenges of this very time-demanding business — his family lived in the space directly above his restaurant and he could go upstairs during service to tuck his young children into bed every night.

I was walking Julia one morning in February when I saw his wife and children getting out of a van in front of the darkened restaurant. They all looked so numb and so weary. Hours later I heard the news that Dan Nilsson had committed suicide on a friend’s farm.  I was destroyed and within hours was thinking of leaving Hudson for a new home. It was as if a cloud had descended here and the streets and shops suddenly felt more empty and lifeless than ever before.  It was unfathomable to me how a young man with so much talent and so much love from this community could simply be gone forever. In order to avoid scaring my sweet dogs, I went out to my car and had a good cry.

I hadn’t cooked my own burger in about 4 years but did so after Danny died. Some grilled onions and dry mustard completed the satisfying trio. I have longed since that February day for a menu that serves two price points, two distinctly different appetites and I dedicate my first real restaurant menu to Dan.  Life is too short not to enjoy at least one great meal every day but we’ll all have to do it without DA|BA Dan who is 86’d.

God bless you Daniel Nilsson.  As I told you more than once, you were “rock solid consistently great!”

 

 

 

Launching Edward Scissorhands

Working for a legacy feature film company on a studio lot is probably as close as I will come in this lifetime to attending Hogwarts. A time warp of art, magic and ideas, the Fox Lot in Century City was originally Movietone City. unto itself, with streets and avenues, a post office and a hospital. It has the time worn charm of the glory days of studio film and Los Angeles. In October of 1990 I got a job working on the Academy Awards campaign for 20th Century Fox Features. I had worked on the Fox lot in Century City before but not like this.

Each stage and each building holds a unique history as host to dozens of successive productions. Stage 9 was built in 1928 and since then has been home to  “Sherlock Holmes” (1939), to Otto Preminger for “Laura” (1944) and again for “River of No Return” (1954), “No Business Like Show Business” (1954), “The Fly” (1958). Then to television series including “Peyton Place” (1964-1969), “Batman!”(1966), “The Ghost and Mrs Muir” (1968-1970),  and then eleven years as home to “M*A*S*H” (1972-1983) including the “exterior” shots which were done there indoors instead of on the Fox Ranch. Then it was home to “Hooperman” (1987-1989) before hosting “NYPD Blue” from 1993 through 2005.  And that is ONE stage — they are all like that.  “Edward Scissorhands” was shot on Stages 14, 15 and 16 (see map section below) with some exteriors in Florida.

I was reporting to Booker McClay in Building 89.  Booker was a semi-retired veteran from the glory days of the studios and feature film. Booker was a fountain of knowledge about both the studio and life and a great guy to work with. He seemed to be very well connected to the old guard on the Lot and he got me a parking place right by Stage 11 so things were already much better than my prior gigs there when I had to park on Motor Ave and walk about 15 minutes to the Lot.  Booker, I soon found out, could get almost anything he wanted.

Fox-Lot-Map-1991-Bldg89-Pub

Booker took me aside early in the gig and told me ‘I am slowing down a bit and I have had a stroke but I would appreciate it if you don’t make me feel like an old man.’  I asked if I had said or done something that did that. ‘No, but don’t start.’

Continue reading Launching Edward Scissorhands

5 Ways to Screw Up Your New Business

It’s a great idea for a business. At least that’s what your friends say. Hurry do it before someone else does. What could go wrong?  I consult with new businesses and many of them know exactly how to screw it up…

  1. Being the First Business of Its Type

Many people think being the first to open or start a new kind of business is worth something. Some think they can copyright or trademark their new business idea and stop others from copying it. There are a couple problems with that thinking.

Being first isn’t worth anything, in fact it is the most expensive position to take. If you are the first you have recruit and educate customers to this new way of doing business. You have to explain the concept and convince people that it is worth changing the way they have always done something.  That is not only hard but expensive because you need to get people’s attention long enough to make your pitch.

Plenty of first movers have run out of money, made mistakes that competitors can learn from and paved the way for those who come later.

If you are looking at your business idea and thinking “No one has ever done this before” be sure to ask yourself why not?

2. Not Knowing Your Customer

It is tempting to think that people who like X will like this business but if you aren’t one of those people then you are at a big disadvantage.  A good new business fills a need. You should understand that need as well as possible. If the need is/was so big then how come no one fill it before?

Better to stick with businesses that you DO understand the need for and have been a customer of.  Imagine for example starting a cat sitting business when you have never used  cat sitter or worse, have never owned a cat.

3. Opening a Restaurant

Don’t do it. Just don’t.  It may sound good and your friends have always said ‘You’re a great cook…you should open a restaurant’ but if you have never worked in a restaurant you have no idea what you are getting into. And if you have worked in a restaurant and are still thinking about opening one consider other options.

You raised or have or inherited $200,000 so you want to open a restaurant…. why? You hate money?  You want to die broke? You don’t like having free time, normal blood pressure or a credit score above 400?

If you can’t resist the siren song, at least start with something survivable — a catering business or a pop-up.  Give yourself time to come to your senses, hopefully before your money runs out.

4. Not Researching the Competition

Had a client tell me they didn’t do a feasibility study because “feasibility studies tell you all the reasons NOT to just do it.”   Um, yes. You’re going to find out those reasons sooner or later.  Sooner is MUCH cheaper.

Go look at the competition and learn as much as you can. How many employees do they have? How many customers? When are they busy? When slow? Who is their supplier(s) (look in their trash)? How much rent do they pay?  How deep are their pockets and what are they likely to do if you start to see some success?

Learn from their mistakes and their successes.

5. Starting with Angel Money

Maybe this is not a complete mistake but it easily leads to mistakes including mistakes in the overall design of the business model. Many people think about how much it will cost to start a business but not how much they will need to keep it running.  There is a mental hole in the big picture of their business and it sneaks out in statements like “I want to open a business that does ___X___”  rather than “I want to run a business…”

This problem is worse with non-profits.  Some people believe that non-profits don’t need to make money or that they don’t need to have the same business accounting and structures that for-profit business do.  These people are wrong.

When you get grants to start a non-profit your customer is the grantor entity, not the people coming in the door.  The grantor wants prestige and credit for doing something good in the community but that is sometimes at odds with what the community allegedly being served actually wants.  Then you have two masters to serve… good luck.

 

6 Easy Ways to DIY Interior Design

Six steps that will transform your space on a budget.

Declutter your living space.  “Less is more” and that it often true in design.  You might start with the closets. Get rid of anything you have used in 2 years. Make some space for the things that you use, albeit infrequently and then move those things into your closets and cabinets. They will be handy but out of sight.

What’s Not There matters as much as what is there. Take a little mental inventory of your living space, noting anything with a plastic surface or overtly shabby appearance. Think of things which could be swapped for the plastic. For example, many of us have plastic trash cans that could easily be replaced by something more pleasing to the eye. A small plastic trash can could be replaced by that seldom used wine bucket. You can still use it for wine when the need arises but the rest of the time it can function as a stylish trash can.

Dishwashing liquids can go into pump containers or those glass bottles that include their own stopper and gasket.

Picking a wall paint color can be a real challenge in designing interior spaces but there are some basic methods that nearly guarantee your space will look magazine ready:
– Use lightly tinted paints, earth tones and the off-whites look great and set off whatever you put in the room. A very limited and light palette for the walls is more flexible, less dominant than walls that are saturated colors.
– There is a temptation to paint the walls your favorite color — don’t do it. Use a background color that will showcase the things you have that ARE your favorite color.

Paint wall surfaces that need it. Start with a touch up for door and floor trim, probably that means a quart of white semi gloss latex and a decent $10+ paint brush. Great value and quick way to refresh the space as you start transitioning to your new design.

Collect Swatches and Pictures. As you pick your paint, fabrics and other surfaces, collect samples of them in a form that you can take with you when shopping for subsequent items.  When you have your paint open for the touch ups, paint on a sheet of paper or the cover of the swatch binder itself. Do the real paint in your can, not the chip on the little cards in the store.

Add pieces of any fabrics you already have or close accurate pictures of them. With a smartphone, check to see that your shot on screen matches whatever you just took a picture of.  Put the phone screen right next to the item, if it isn’t accurate color matching, try different lightsources — direct sunlight, indirect, flash, no flash, etc.

Wall Hangings. Look among your personal treasures for things that could be wall hangings. Replace or expand from framed art to include items that both look interesting and relate to you and your journey.  If you plan to hang items in clusters lay them out on the floor first. Try different spacing and configurations. Shoot pictures of the ones that seem to work then pick from the pictures.
Personal treasures would include anything that is not a frame-able item. Long items work well — canes, golf clubs, skis, boat oars, kayaks, reclaimed boards, and rope.  Collections can used to invigorate forgotten spaces but you have to create a pattern with them and mount them to the wall minimally so that your eye goes to the pieces and not the mounting, for example shelves would invalidate the concept. It has to be a collection of similarly sized things — Matchbox cars, lunch boxes, Pez dispensers, — or you risk re-cluttering what you uncluttered 5 steps ago.

 

Edward Scissorhands in 70mm 6 track

Tim Burton had just made “Batman” and “Beetlejuice” and Fox wanted in on his next hit so they did “Edward Scissorhands” as part of the deal to get Burton. They had done something similar with Director Chris Columbus and that was about to pay off big.  But Burton was hot as a pistol in 1989. He was delivering stylish, eye-candy fantasy movies that filled seats. That’s what the studio and the money people ultimately want but the brightness that you see in Tim Burton films made after “Beetlejuice” seems first unleashed in “Edward Scissorhands”. The screen world of Batman and Beetlejuice is cloudy or in a cave but the locations for Scissorhands were shot in a real suburb in Florida.  Pastel houses, big hair, poodles.

Zanuck Theatre

Booker walked me into Zanuck and he showed me the case upstairs, the Oscars. In the old days they used to give the Oscar to the studio, not to the actress, writer, etc. Only to the studio so the studio still had them and there they were. Statue upon statue, rows of golden capsules of immortality floating on glass shelves. They called out in ghostly echoes of a multi-layered past, movies like  “How Green Was My Valley”and  “The Grapes of Wrath”

We went into the booth which was as wide as the theater itself and had two beds and a fridge. “Scissorhands” was done in 70mm so the room has got this quadrupple-sized movie film going back and forth overhead off of enormous reels.  The scale of the film makes me feel like I should be 2 feet tall.  Each frame is like a postcard, like looking at panes of stained glass.

I dizzy’ed myself with the thought that I was in the theater where they did the final mix on “Star Wars” and “Jedi.”  This was the ‘Abbey Road’ of “Star Wars.”  The room where they first created and heard the final version of “The Sound of Music” that went on to become one of the most beloved films of all time.  Sound gets locked after the picture track is locked so on every film pretty much, this is the room where the sound mix and therefore the final cut of the film that gets duped and becomes the one we all see and hear, was given birth to!

The film was great. The music and style really pulled it together. As much as I liked it, I understood much better after seeing the film itself, what the challenge was. How do you get people to say yes or no to the quirky charm on this film if you can’t get that quirky charm across to them in 30 seconds or less?  The film just doesn’t sit in a nice neat box like “Batman” did. On top of that, the film really isn’t for everyone.  Not everyone wants to pluck down $10 for a quirky fairytale. Again I liked the film from the get go but I got that part of the challenge.

I think the studio wanted to sell it as a date film. It was definitely skewing female and that was another change from the Tim Burton of “Batman.”   Johnny Depp was at that time only well known to people who watched “21 Jump Street” the TV series he had done for the 3 years prior. Depp was not an A-list star then despite his fine work in Oliver Stone’s 1986 movie “Platoon” or even  in 1984’s  runaway hit “Nightmare on Elm Street.”  After “Scissorhands” Depp’s next feature was another Freddie film which only added to the confusion around “Scissorhands.”

Depp had prepared for the character in part by studying Charlie Chaplin and Marcel Marceau, mostly Chaplin. The bit with the sheep dog and he cuts its bangs is pure Chaplin.  Depp was happy to work with Vincent Price and Price is eerily well cast as this was the last film he made.   (more…)