Tag Archives: icelandic cod

Marissa Ryan Pop Up at Food Studio Hudson

I met Marissa 4 years ago during our work on the Hudson Co-op.  I knew she was a beautiful and accomplished chef but had never experienced her cuisine so I jumped at tonight’s chance to finally do so.

We entered to find Food Studio nearly full by 630PM. Our serverfood studio pop up led us past the Mayor and friends at the first table enjoying Marissa’s combo of fresh made pasta and local squash. She then found us seats at the long, chest-high table in the middle of the narrow space and we sat between other groups of diners. Marissa worked calmly yet busily next to the pool of light from Food Studio hood.

Ryan’s thoughtfully selected and lovingly presented cuisine was the star of the night leading off with the opening act of her Bone Brodo: 4 fresh pasta dumplings perfectly executed with a complex semi soft cheese filling and bathing in an equally complex and deep broth with highlights of green pea shoots and pork. An East meets West Marco Polo-esque triumph. Highly recommended. For me the best dish of a night of strong contenders.  Something magical effused from the pork and pea shoot combo, especially when the extra salt near the bottom of the broth bowl kicked in.  (Wine pair: A white Bordeaux, Gewürztraminer or dry Riesling just below room temp)

Tender and succulent Icelandic cod arrived beside a wedge of braised cabbage that combined savory with the pop of refreshing citrus. An enigmatic red chili sauce, that wanders between sweet and spicy as the background suits it, tied the plates elements together in an inspired dance. Dressed mustard greens added color while a wafer of crisped barley added crunch and the comforting echoes of golden grain.  (Pale ale, malolactic Chardonnay or a Gavi).

Her Osso Bucco was exceptionally satisfying. With the punch of fresh thyme and parsley over the densely flavored succulently braised beef shank on a soft bed of earthy polenta.  A straight-over-the-centerfield-wall homerun!  A familiar yet uniquely executed reminder of why Osso bucco is such a satiating and memorable dish. The marrow was richly flavored and cried out to be smeared across crustini. (Nebbiolo, Barolo or a Left Bank Bordeaux)

Carmelized Brussel sprouts, pancetta and balsamic was a nice side dish which built on the savory combo of the main dishes. Halved sprouts were masterfully browned and seem to take on the perfect combo of rich pancetta and acid.

Bravo!